Shocking the Pool and Pool Spring Start-Up

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Pool shock and start-up:

  1. Measure the pool water pH and Total Alkalinity BEFORE starting the shock process.
  2. Check pool water level to see if you need to add a little more water.
  3. Double–check the skimmers to see that the baskets are clear.
  4. Make sure the return line ball valve to the main pool ( in the rear pump-room pit ) is open.
  5. The Return line butterfly vavle in the pump room should be closed.
  6. Shut the ball valves before and after the skimmer pumps.
  7. Shut the filter bin drain butterfly valve.
  8. Shut off the water feed for the DE feeder.
  9. For now, the heater ball valves are closed.
  10. The chemical feed lines to the computer controller should stay off until after the shock process.
  11. The chemical pumps should be off until after the shock process.
  12. Up on deck, broadcast about 40–50lbs Calcium hypochlorite into the pool. (This is about ½ the #100 can.) Move around to help disperse it. To avoid dust blowing into your face, you can dissolve the solid in a bucket of water then broadcast the solution into the pool (it is slower, but works.)
Back in the pump room:
  1. Open the gate valve (Main Valve) in the line coming from the pool’s main drain.
  2. Turn on the City Water valve to operate the hydraulic butterfly valve.
  3. The hydraulic valve will open and allow the pool water to fill the filter bin.
  4. Once the "purge valve" shows a steady stream of water, close it.
  5. When the water reaches the desired height in the filter box, close the City Water Valve.
  6. With the Main butterfly closed and the Recycle Valve fully open start the Main Pump.
  7. Using a 32 oz coffee can, pre–coat the filter with 15 cans of Diatomaceous Earth (DE).
  8. When the water in the filter becomes clear, the DE has pre-coated the filter medium and it is ready to process the pool water.
  9. Open the Main Butterfly about ½ way and quickly close the Recycle Valve about ½ way .
  10. Using the Main Butterfly valve to control the water pressure – closing it raises the pressure and opening lowers it. Aim for 20 lbs/in2 .
  11. Open the 4 Skimmer ball valves and turn on both Skimmer pumps.
  12. With the Skimmer pumps on and the Main butterfly valve set correctly the water in the filter box will stay above the filter medium.
  13. Turn on the water supply to the DE feeder.
  14. Allow filter to run at least 8 hours to completely circulate the Calcium hypochlorite and to allow the pool water pH to become strongly alkaline. The Heavy metals in the water will form complexes and precipitate from solution onto the filter media.
  15. Thoroughly vacuum the main pool.
  16. Once the vacuuming is finished, drain the filter bin and backwash the system.
  17. Once again test the pool water pH and Total Alkalinity. Add Muriatic Acid to bring the pH to around 7.5. Muriatic Acid will also drop the Total Alkalinity (1 gallon will drop TA about 20 units.) Aim for TA of 80 to 120.
  18. Since we do not have gallon bottles of Muriatic Acid, Open the lines to the CAT Controller and turn the acid feed to manual. Allow it to run full speed for several hours, monitoring the water chemistry every hour.
  19. Once water is balanced you can add about 35 lbs. Cyanuric Acid. I add it to the skimmers a scoop at a time all around to try to allow it to dissolve a bit and not clog the skimmers which will lower the water level in the filter bin and now you've got another problem.
  20. Start using chlorine chemical feed pump once the chlorine readings drop below 3.
  21. Note: The Cyanuric does not have to be done on day 3. Whenever you can get the water balance right, then add it. Try to get at least a 48 hr run after adding Cyanuric Acid.
  22. Keeping an eye on the vacuum gauge will tell you if you need to backwash. A lot of chlorine at once and the impurities in the new water may cause more backwashing day 2, 3, and maybe 4.
  23. Keep an eye on the water level in the pool. Backwashing may cause some water loss. Add water as needed.
  24. Open the Ball valves in the pump room and the gate valves by the heater.
  25. Make sure the furnace circuit breaker is turned on. (If the booster pump doesn’t run the furnace will not light.)
  26. The furnace should be turned on Wed. before opening as it takes a full 48 hours to heat the pool.
Once operational:

  1. Turn on the Baby Pool valves in the back room of the pump room. Adjust the water flow in the BP with the valves in the pit by the Baby Pool. Keep the drain valve full open.
  2. The Chemical test probes have been kept wet all winter. When there is water in the pool, install them in their test positions. Do not allow air to remain around them for longer than necessary. Use the ball valve to control water flow up and around them.
  3. Once the water is within the correct chemical range, check the pH calibration, then the Chlorine calibration. They should both read the same as your test kit. If not adjust the instrument reading up or down with the buttons on the face of the unit. The procedure is described in a bit more detail in the black binder kept below the meter.
  4. You can check the operation of the chemical pumps by switching the instrument to manual – the chemical pump involved should start to pump. Run the pump until the air is purged from the feed line. Once your instrument readings are in agreement with the test kits, and the air has been purged from the system, turn the instrument to automatic and it should control the operation of the two chemical pumps.
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